For years I’ve been enchanted by Elie Saab’s couture creations. From Grecian silhouettes to sleek mid-length daywear to glittering, delicate gowns of lace and embroidery, each runway show after the next evokes dreams of princesses, Hollywood glamour or tropical sunsets.
And though the Elie Saab Spring 2015 Couture show earlier this week in Paris strikes the same tender spot in my heart, I also noticed a change in the elegant style. Saab revealed a greater number of A-line silhouettes, particularly in the flirty above-the-knee looks. While sparkling embroidery was still prevalent, ostrich plumes, a hint of lingerie inspiration and 1960s mod were also apparent.
As for color, some collections feature a spectrum of hues found in the coral reef (see Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear) and others have reminded me of the swiftly changing skies at dusk (see Spring 2014 Haute Couture). The 2015 spring couture collection sticks to a mostly neutral palette with muted tones that bring to mind vintage photographs and dried flowers.
This all ties together in Saab’s inspiration for the collection, which he dedicated to his past. Guests at the show were treated to a chapbook with a 1960s portrait of his parents in Beirut. “Saab rarely uses prints, preferring the simplicity of a solid-color dress, but his mother’s tulips proved a powerful totem this season,” Nicole Phelps writes on Style.com, referring to the use of watercolor-like floral patterns that repeated in a number of the looks. (Read the full review here.)
Now, excuse me while I drift into sepia dreams of secret gardens.
Photos by Kim Weston Arnold via Style.com.